LOOK MA, IT'S YOURS!

In an age when fashion changes by the months, having the 'perfect' trousseau may just be going "back in time", says Madhulika Dash

    Ah, the wedding trousseau. Among all the pleasures of being a bride, putting together the wedding trousseau is perhaps by far the most exciting, and the best part of it.
    But over the time, the whole idea of the 'perfect' trousseau has undergone a lot of change. From simply being the symbol of the bride's family, tradition and customs, it has today become more personalized - and an extension of who the bride is.
    So instead of the 101 new heavy saris, there is a wide array of designs and patterns collected from all over the country in wide variety of dresses, suits and others. The traditional 21 heavy bridal wear has also been eschewed in favour of having simple yet elegant pieces. And the pièce de résistance - the wedding joda - is more or less been turned into an heirloom. Though still exciting, the whole process of putting together that 'awesome' wedding trunk is a draconian nightmare, more so when what's in today is obsolete tomorrow.
    So what does one do? Take a cue from actress and big screen charmer Kareena Kapoor. In spite of the wealth the star has, Kareena in true blue blood style decided to wear her would-be mother-in-law Sharmila Tagore Pataudi's wedding joda for her own wedding. Much like her famous yesteryear screen diva mother-in-law did nearly 43 years ago, when she wore her mother-in-law's Begum Sajida Sultan's joda for her wedding to Tiger Pataudi. Likewise for jewellery too.
    Fashion designer and old style curator, Salim Asgarally, says, "Choosing your mother/mother-in-law's ensemble over getting a new one stitched has been an old concept. Tradition had it that often the joda that the bride would wear for her shaadi would come from the groom's place. And more often than not was an heirloom that was being passed from one generation to another as a mark of blessing and good luck."
    In fact, another ace designer who feels the same is Ritu Beri, whose 2011 collection was a contemporary interpretation of traditional designs and style. Talking about her new collection, she had hinted towards a growing trend where brides take pride in sporting the 'traditional work' (including the wedding set) in place of getting a brand new ensemble stitched. A classical example of the same was Rajmata Gayatri Devi, whose wedding jewellery belonged to the queen of Cooch Bihar.
    But the trend of choosing from your mum's cupboard isn't just limited to the shaadi ka joda. In many cases it has gone beyond and how. Take the case of Monalisa Kar. An army officer's daughter, Monalisa's wedding trousseau had the best of both the worlds. "I had saris from across the states, thanks to my mother. And then 21 'classics' that I picked up from my relatives, friends and others," says the interior designer gleefully. Today, the mother of one has saved much of those classic pieces for her own daughter. "More than anything else it gives an emotional connect with your family and a varied taste."
    Agrees psychologist Itishree Mishra. "I remember my wedding trunk was made of saris that I had borrowed from my cousins, aunts and collected over the years of my travelling. Eventually, I had an envious box that even my in-laws could not help but be in awe of," quips Mishra.
    However, the perks of such an eclectic wardrobe go beyond the uniqueness, it also is a cost effective, less stressful and an extremely satisfactory way of enjoying the tradition. Just like writer Kamakshi Sinha discovered. "For my wedding, I had to restore my mother's kanjeevaram and finally discovered Kanchipuram - a small temple town exclusively into weaving this beautiful piece of traditional art. The fact that it could be restored in half the cost of buying the bridal kanjeevaram today was a bonus," says Kamakshi.
    "The emotional connect and the discovery has been one of the reasons that more and more brides today are choosing to go back in time for their trousseau. They have realized that such styles are now rare and hard to find. The fact that it has become an interesting way to revive forgotten art form has been an added reason for more and more designers to encourage a trend like this," says sari expert Shaina NC,
    "In my years, where I have restored an old sari or ghaghra I have found that no two Benarasi sari or Sambalpuri are the same. Even the embroideries have a different feel and look to it. Which makes your grandma's or mother's sari one of a kind," adds Asgarally.
    However that isn't enough to get rummaging into your mum's cupboard. "Saris, especially handmade embroidery and motifs have a tendency to turn black over a period of time. And the cloth itself tends to disintegrates from the fold. So there is a good chance that by the time you decide to wear your mum's joda for your wedding, the sari may not be in a state of restoring, besides the border and few of the other pieces," he believes.
    Having said that though, there is little hope lost when it comes to putting together your dream trousseau, that's classic yet unique. The mantra, say experts, is to start collecting early and storing well, even if it means taking it from your relatives and friends.
    Start by collecting one sari each from the places you travel. "Every place has its own charm. And picking up a traditional design/style from that place ensures that you have an unique piece with you, and of a tradition that may not be alive tomorrow," says Salim. Your best picks are: Dhoop Chaon Banarasi Silk, Kanchipuram gold weaves, the Pitambari of Gujarat, the Maheswaris, Patolas and Mangalgiris.
    The best way to store these will be to roll and keep it in a soft muslin cloth then fold it. Folding keeps the embroidery from aging, and the fabric from withering. Remember to air them once every six months, and get the embroidery and bead work polished just as often.
    Depending on the number of ensembles and rituals categorise your need into salwar kameez, sarees, western dresses and lingerie. A good idea would be to break each category into formal and semi formal. Dark, rich colours with heavy embroidery works best for the evening, pastels with light work and bold pattern is for day events. Stick to classic styles like straight cuts with fine detailing teamed with churidars.
    As for the saris, go for styles that compliment you. Chiffons and georgettes are ideal as they are figure flattering, and are good for customization. So if you have an old tradition with an excellent border and some bead work - chiffon can be the fabric on which the designs can be re-sewed on to give it a newer yet classic look. Falling sequins and embroidery, especially if its 'sachha kaam' need to be rethreaded and reinforced, so if you are choosing something similar, ensure it isn't on your 'last minute to do list'.
    But if you could only save bits and pieces of something that belonged to your beloved - then a better way of assembling it in your wardrobe is to make it a part of cocktail dresses. They not only give it an interesting twist, but make you - the bride- the centre of attention.